Frequently Asked Questions & Tips
I have recently found that the instructions have been changed. I do NOT have the later instructions. If you have a problem that is not answered here and have the later instructions, scan the relevant page and e-mail it to me and I will see if I can help.
On this page you will find various tips and answers to some questions that have been asked.
The page will be divided into sections corresponding to parts of the organ.
I am not claiming that all suggestions and tips are my own. Thanks to all who have contributed.
The contents will grow as I recieve more questions.

References to "JS" are short for "John Smith"
PIPES
BELLOWS & RESERVOIR
TRACKER BAR & MUSIC SCALE
PRESSURE BOX

PIPES
Q. Are the pipe measurements critical ?
A. Generally speaking the pipe measurements are NOT critical. However you should try and make the pipes reasonably "square" and get the outside width of the pipe about right. The width is important because when the 17 pipes are laid side to side they have to fit in a space 14 3/4 in. wide. You will almost certainly have to sand a small amount from the sides of each pipe to get them to fit between the end panels.
TIP. Don't forget to make all pipes 5% longer than specified to allow for tuning. You can always cut some off after tuning but you cannot add length. It is principally the effective length of the pipe which determines the note that it sounds.
Q. Why is the drawing of the Bb pipe longer than 7 3/4in. ?
A. I suspect that JS has added the 5% to the pipe.
Q. Do I need "nipples" on the pipes as shown by Ed Gaida ?
A. That depends on the type of tubing you are going to use. If you use rubber tubing then you will need "nipples". If you use PVC tubing you only need to drill a hole in the pipe which is an interference fit with the o/d of the tubing.
Q. Do I HAVE to use hardwood for the front covers ?
A. NO you can make the covers from 1/8in plywood. To make the angle on the upper cover; I used a grinding wheel followed by sanding.
Q. Do I HAVE to use balsawood to make the pipes ?
A. NO you can make the pipes from almost any wood that you can obtain (or plane yourself) into 1/8in. thickness. The thickness is important because the first 17 pipes have to fit into the width of the organ. If the wood you use is too thick, you will have to sand the sides down a by a large amount to make them all fit into the finished width of the organ. Remember too that the more porous the wood, the more sealing you will have to do. The sounding part of the pipe MUST be air tight...and that includes the stopper !
Q. How do I make the pipes air tight ?
A. Coat the pipe with several coats of "varnish". I used a water based acrylic "varnish" because it finds gaps easier than oil based products and it is easier to clean the brushes afterwards. Make sure the stoppers are a good fit, use card shims between the stopper and the chamois if the stoppers are loose.

Top of Page. BELLOWS & RESERVOIR
Q. What are the missing measurements on p16 of the instructions ?
A.

Q. Why did my bellows blow apart ?
A. Two possibilities, either you have placed the valves wrongly and or you have built the reservoir with a base. The two smaller bellows boards have the valves so that they are on the inside of the bellows. The two larger boards have the valves on the outside of the bellows. The ouside valves end up inside the reservoir which has 4 sides and a top but no bottom.
Q. What material should I use for the bellows and reservoir ?
A. This depends on whether or not you are used to working with leather ! If you have never worked with leather, then I would strongly recommend using the black out material. It is much easier to work with than leather and you are more likely to get an air tight unit. My 20 note "busker" has been working for nearly 3 years using black out material and shows no signs of leaking. It's also MUCH cheaper !
Q. What is this "black out" material and where can I get it ?
A. The material is used for lining curtains to make them totally light proof. It appears to be made from a base linen type material impregnated with a rubbery substance. Go to a GOOD drapers and ask for "curtain black out" material. In the UK "John Lewis" is a good source, ask them if they have any off cuts....it's cheaper that way !

Top of Page. TRACKER BAR & MUSIC SCALE
Q. Where can I find a moulding suitable for the tracker bar ?
A. If you cannot find a suitable moulding, try an old boxwood 12in. ruler. I have not used this myself but I have a report that it works.
Q. How can I drill the tracker bar accurately ?
A. Use a pilot drill first, say 1.5mm or 1/16in.NB. Some types of wood do not like pilot holes ! If you have trouble, drill directly with a 4mm drill. Use a steel rule to mark the hole positions.
TIP. Either give the tracker bar a coat of varnish or cover with masking tape before drilling to prevent chipping around the holes.
Q. What is the relationship between a written scale, piano notes and the tracker bar.
A. Below you will find a diagram drawn by Charles Supplee from Arizona. I think it is very useful. Thanks Chuck.
The diagram is rather large to view on screen so if you right click and choose "save picture as" you can save it to your hard drive to view later.

PRESSURE BOX
Q. There seems to be a difference between plans and video regarding the position of the air inlet at the pressure box. Which is correct ?
A. The original plans showed the air entry to the pressure box, at the bottom of the box. JS altered the later plans to show the air entry on the drive wheel side, adjacent to the feed spool holder. The change was made so that the air feed pipe didn't have to turn through 90 degrees. In fact, you can put the air feed anywhere in the pressure box so long as it doesn't interfere with any of the mechanics. Top of Page.